Road Trip To Inuvik In the Arctic

Whilst I was in Banff, Canada, I decided that I wanted to visit Inuvik in the arctic. It did not look that far to drive so I went and hired a car, packed a few thermal clothes, a sleeping bag and bought food supplies. I then convinced a friend to accompany me on the epic voyage.

To get to the Arctic from Banff you need to head up through Alberta, British Columbia, Yukon and the Northern West territories. From here, you turn onto the Dempster highway to Inuvik. The return journey would cover 2674 miles at the end of winter so conditions are still harsh with temperatures of minus 15-35 degrees. I had only given myself 8 days to cover this distance so it would be around 14hrs driving a day and at night sleeping in the car.

The first leg of the journey to the Dempster highway took three days. This was a long haul but was more stimulating than expected. We were aware that petrol stations were few and far between so make sure the tank was filled at each one. In addition to going through towns covered in snow, driving along side mile long cargo trains, we got to drive over dramatic engulfing steel bridges and past rivers flowing through ice banks amongst tree valleys. Apart from the dramatic scenery there were extra unique things to see; trucks that carry packs of huskies; a field full of number plates attached to posts with the odd other sign. The more north we went the snow just got thicker and it got colder with less light in the day. We had music and laughter to keep us motivated. Just past Whitehorse, we passed a herd of Moose walking by the road. We then came upon miles of devastated forest that had been burnt down due to a forest fire a long time ago. Sticks of the once trees remain with a few small sprouts emerging. The evenings were spent watching the sunset over the trees then pulling over to try to get some sleep. Eventually, we arrived in Dawson City and went out to see the Northern lights. They were breath taking green swirls, changing shapes in and out of view. We were informed that they are the weakest at the moment and so we would have to wait another 14 years till they would be at their brightest. If these are, the weak ones, I cannot wait to see them at their strongest. Due to the drop in temperature, we could no longer sleep in the car so into a motel and plugged in the car to stop it from freezing. I did not know people actually did this!

The morning of the fourth day came, the one we had been waiting for. We had to head back down the Klondike highway a short way until our turnoff onto the Dempster Highway. From here, it was just another 457miles to Inuvik. Car filled up we headed off. The scenery changed to bleakness that was more dramatic in no time, no houses, and no lights just a layer of snow icing. The road was deserted and icy, it was just the wild and us. About an hour in, we saw some lynx playing by the side of the road so we pulled over. An amazing opportunity but after a short while we decided we should move on so we could get to Inuvik before sunset.  The drive was through valleys along side looming mountains, past frozen lakes with the road looping around itself. The mountains soon levelled off to reveal a flat icing of snow. There are hardly any trees after the initial start and the ones we did see were like frozen popsicles sticking out. It was the midday blue sky. The bleakness was astounding but it felt calm and safe. The temperature was now minus 30 – 35 so walking around was not an option, our clothes were not insulated enough. The road got icier and the driving harder, at one point we nearly skidded off a cliff.  Around three quarters down the road, just past Eagle Plains, we got to the Arctic Circle. In silence and awe we just stood looking around taking in the vast nothingness and thinking of the people who live beyond here. Here there are no other people just the void and us. We have to then drive along the airport landing strip, the road itself, and twice over the frozen river. After being able to drive through such dramatic scenery the road was suddenly straight, non-changing lined with the popsicle trees. After two hours, it seemed like we were still on the same stretch of road that we started on two hours ago, very disorientating. The journey was over, we reached Inuvik early evening and crashed at a hotel after plugging our car in for the night.

The next morning before heading back we went sightseeing around the town. We saw the church that is shaped like an igloo, the graveyard and colourful rows of houses. It was dusk the whole drive up the Dempster highway and whilst we were in Inuvik which gave a more lonesome feeling. A splash of colour was just what we needed after all the white.

On the way back, at the Arctic Circle, we came across a 4wd with a film crew. We inquired what was going on as a man ran past us pulling a sleigh. It was the 6633 ultra marathon. Twenty contestants start at the beginning of the five-day event but only six were left when we arrived. I cannot imagine how hard it would be in those severe conditions. The rest of the way back was a more demanding journey, as the snow was getting heavier. At one point, we did a 360-degree spin onto the frozen river, up ended onto a snow bank. Luckily, we were fine but the car took a battering. A day later produced another skid into a snow wall. Back into British Colombia conditions improved radically and we arrived back in Banff safely but tired.

What an experience one I will be redoing in 14 years time.