Back To the Amazon

After leaving the Amazon three years ago I thought it was time I went back. I had really enjoyed myself the first time and missed the place, mosquitoes, and all. This time I planned to go in from Leticia, Colombia and travel into Macapa, Brazil.  

Leticia was a lot different to what I was expecting. Previous Amazon cities I had experience with were Iquitos and Requena. Neither very pleasant or safe and made you want to leave as soon as you landed. Leticia is small, the people are friendly, and the ice cream is great. There is not much to do in Leticia except arrange boats or tours. The zoo is now closed down but walking around is pleasant and the park is relaxing and includes a pond in addition to various statues. Next to this is another pond that contains the giant Victoria lily pads in case you don’t get to go on a tour to see them. Down by the river is a market; do not presume town finishes at the rivers edge. Walk over the water by the narrow ledge; along the shop fronts and you will come onto a long pier. There are more little shops, fish factories, and plenty of boats and life. Catch a boat to nearby small towns in Peru or just cruise the river. North of here is the river town area. The houses in this area are all in the river on stilts with just planks of wood connecting them, all very wobbly narrow planks that creak when you place your feet onto them. As soon as someone wanted to get past, I clung on for my life onto the nearest post or house. It is a very interesting seeing people live like this and they are quite happy for you to walk around. Occasionally I stumbled across a shop in this bizarre setting.

On our first evening, we were taken into Tabatinga, Brazil, for a free concert (There is an agreement with the two countries that you can commute between the two towns without a visa). The hostel owner met us at the border; just a 15min walk on the main road connecting the two countries and towns. The whole section of the road was littered with bars. I felt like I was back in the 80’s with neon lights and lasers dancing around. At the border, we took three motor taxis to the concert. The band was playing a type of samba music under an old petrol station roof. The place was packed, cheap beer and free music. People were dancing, drinking, or hanging with their bikes. A great atmosphere, when the band acknowledged us the crowd all cheered. We were late arriving so unfortunately we only got just over an hour of music. If you are around for long enough they play every week.

The next day we headed to Tabatinga, legally, to catch our speedboat to Manaus. It was cheaper than the slow boat so how could we refuse. Be aware though that if you are North American you need a Brazilian visa in advance combined with a ticket out of Brazil. Sorting it out here takes a lot time, maybe a few days, and hassle.

The speedboat looked like another 80’s object, a square looking Lego plane. The seats inside were very comfortable and reclined. Food was buffet style 3 times a day and was the same. We were informed that the boat would take 2 days but it was actually 3 days and 2 nights. I am a vegetarian so food was limited to rice, bananas, and noodles. Breakfast was biscuits and coffee but luckily, I had brought supplies with me. Acai berries are served after every meal. A close resemblance to purple paint with the option of rice crispies added to the top. Taking a mouthful I realised I had just eaten something very sour and acidic. Not to my tasting and I do not think I would have it again. Not long after the boat leaves Tabatinga, it stops in the centre of the river. Police come aboard and search all bags and people. After nearly two hours, one lady with a baby was arrested for drug smuggling. Unfortunately, we were sitting behind her so got searched more than other people were. Once on our way, we sat on the seats at the front next to the open doors. Films and music videos were played until lights out or you could just look at the scenery and read a book. Coffee and water was available throughout the voyage. As I remember, the jungle is quiet and peaceful and you can get lost in your thoughts forgetting the outside world. It was a very relaxing journey, completely different atmosphere to the slow boats.

Arriving in Manaus was a disappointment; busy and dirty. I was expecting this grand big old city; Instead, I got a city similar to Iquitos. For people who like handbags and shoes they would be in heaven. Buffets are the cheapest way to eat being charged for the weight of the food you have on your plate. We managed to see the theatre just before a downpour started. Two hours were spent huddled under a bus shelter. The rain on the roads got higher flooding the paths carrying all sorts of rubbish including cockroaches.

After a detour into the Guiana’s we caught a slow boat from Macapa to Belem. We were early so had the whole top dock to choose where to hang our hammocks. We took an area next to the pillar to tie our luggage up on under my hammock. Experience on previous slow boats in Peru makes you aware that you have to be vigilant with your belongings. Within no time, the boat filled up with hammocks, but not too many. Up, down, left, right, fancy, plain, bright, dull, everywhere you looked a sea of hammocks. Everyone was very friendly saying hello and looking at us inquisitively. We got informed that tourists were rare on this route. The kitchen staff even came to find us and hand us food when they noticed we had not been down to the kitchen. I would have to say this has been my most enjoyable boat journey. We passed numerous wooden houses hidden by the blanket of trees and vines, small villages, graveyards, churches, and a vast amount of wood mills. Due to the river being narrow we got to see all the houses close up each seem to hold around five - eight people. Every house had a pier and a boat, usually a canoe some with a small ferry. Some even had gardens and vegetables growing on their piers. We were informed that the journey would take only one day, this ended up being two days and two nights. I didn’t mind this time change, I was quite happy observing the river life in a serene setting.

A few hours before arrived in Belem, we were informed we had to change ferries. When the new ferry arrived, we pulled up beside it and jumped on. This ferries main deck was overcrowded and smelt of wet animals, not at all pleasant like our last ferry. There was nowhere to hang our hammocks so I had to sit on bags and my companions’ hammock was in the aisle and got soaked every time the downpour came through the tarpaulin. No sleep this night, next time a cabin. We met an elderly Czech man who had worked in one of the logging mills for 40 years. He comes every two to four weeks for supplies but just leaves the ferry for an hour then returns up river to his house.

Finally at Belem, my second jungle trip was over, a flight to Natal confirmed this. I think I have now exaustered my time on river ferries so my next visit I will go deeper travelling by canoe.